The Forgotten Art of Hairwork: Why Did It Almost Disappear?
- maisonvaillantarte
- Jul 27
- 3 min read
This is a question I have asked myself for several years. Ever since I began collecting hairwork, in fact. Very little documentation exists on the subject, leading me on a quest for understanding as I tried to glean clues from archives and historical records.
In the 19th century, the art of hairwork held a unique place. These pieces were created for a variety of occasions, such as celebrating a blossoming romance, a baptism, taking the religious habit, a wedding, or even commemorating a death. While the mourning aspect is the one most often remembered today, that was not always the case.
Using specialized techniques, hair was transformed into botanical pictures, bouquets, symbolic compositions, landscapes, or even jewelry. All executed with remarkable patience and mastery.
Subsequently, this craft rapidly declined, quietly fading from the artistic and cultural landscape.
The late 19th century, and especially the early 20th century, saw the rise of more commercialized funeral practices. Moving away from intimate, family-centered rituals, these professional services offered bereaved families a way to unburden themselves. Yes, in the long run, this shift contributed to transforming the perception of death and mourning. The era of rapid industrialization did not spare death itself.
Furthermore, the large-scale development of photography made it possible to preserve the actual likeness of loved ones, a factor that almost certainly contributed to the decline of hairwork. As photography became popular, images became inexpensive and far quicker to produce than hairwork, which required long hours of labor and highly specialized craftsmanship. For a while, one sees hairwork frames featuring a photographic portrait at the center of the composition. Notably, these were often mourning frames.
We must also mention the First World War, which brought about a radical shift, a profound upheaval, in how death was viewed and handled. While those who died for France were glorified through monuments, centuries-old traditions were cast aside, as there was no longer time to honor each departed individual personally.
Moreover, these older practices no longer aligned with the aesthetic expectations of a new era eager to turn the page. The pace of the world was accelerating, and traditions were changing too. A radical shift occurred in the perception of hair itself. These pieces began to be viewed more critically, deemed unhygienic or even morbid at times. Consequently, many of these works were lost. Often, only the wooden frames and glass were kept for reuse, while the hairwork itself was discarded.
The role of women in society also underwent a radical shift in the early 20th century. We know that hairwork was created by middle and upper-class women in the 19th century as a daily activity or pastime. Indeed, instructions for such work can be found in the ladies' craft manuals of the era, aimed at women and young girls, alongside other recommended pursuits like sewing and embroidery, complete with patterns and guidelines. This evolution meant that women devoted far less time to these activities, which came to be viewed merely as leisure pursuits.
Combined, these factors undoubtedly contributed to the gradual disappearance of the art of hairwork, and the associated craftsmanship, which had reached its peak during the mid to late 19th century.
Yet, the surviving pieces bear witness to a genuine, complex, and specialized skill set that is nearly forgotten today.
That is precisely what inspired me to embark on years of research to rediscover these historical techniques, understand them, and ultimately bring them back to life through Maison Vaillant.
However, I do not seek to simply replicate the past. I create pieces that are rooted in history yet contemporary in spirit, as well as bespoke commissions, using historical methods. I do so with the conviction that a craft truly vanishes only when no one practices it anymore.
My aim is to perpetuate a heritage of craftsmanship by demonstrating that these age-old techniques still have a place in the modern world. In a fast-paced era where everything has become intangible and digitized, this work answers a widespread desire to restore value to time and bring meaning back to tangible keepsakes.
On this page, I will share my creations and discoveries, as well as the various techniques involved in hairwork and the reflections that shape my creative journey.
And what about you: were you aware of the art of hairwork?
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